Walk in Asian History: Shin Okubo

Kazuhiro Handa

July 22, 2024

A group of people, some holding papers, are standing on a city street near a crosswalk and railway overpass in Shin Okubo. Buildings with various signs fill the background, hinting at the area's rich Asian history.

Yoji Gomi kicks off the Walk in Asian History tour in Shin-Okubo.

Global Peace Foundation (GPF) Japan held its second Walk in Asian History tour—a series of tours where participants walk around historical areas in Tokyo—on June 22, 2024, in Shin-Okubo. Sixteen people experienced the history and culture of Tokyo’s Korea Town, where many foreigners, not only Koreans, have come to reside.

A group of people, some holding papers, stands on a sidewalk near a crosswalk in Shin Okubo, an urban area with shops and signs. One man, with a camera around his neck, appears to be speaking to the group likely about Asian history.

Emmanuel Pastreich expresses his gratitude at the turnout and talks about Shin-Okubo transitions from Korea Town to a multicultural community.

Dr. Emmanuel Pastreich, president of Asia Institute and a senior fellow at GPF, and Yoji Gomi, a journalist and expert on the Korean Peninsula, served as guides for the multicultural program. Together, the participants delved into new cultures and the unique history surrounding them. They began at JR Shin-Okubo Station where Gomi talked about the “passenger accident incident at Shin-Okubo Station” that occurred on January 26, 2001. On that fateful day, a South Korean exchange student, Lee Su-hyon, and a Japanese photographer, Shiro Sekine, were hit by a train as they tried to rescue a drunk man who had fallen onto the train tracks. Unfortunately, all three were killed. A plaque has been set up at the station to commemorate their heroism.

A group of people pose cheerfully in front of

Taking a group photo with Bangladeshi store owner, Raihan Kabir Bouyan

Before embarking, Pastreich shared how some of his ancestors had made their way to America in the early 1900s, which was the start of a new life for them and many “foreigners” of different cultures. He mentioned that a similar phenomenon is happening in present day Japan, and he feels the new possibilities of multiculturalism taking place, especially in the town of Shin-Okubo.

A group of people walking down a street in Shin Okubo, some holding maps and papers, in an urban setting with storefronts and signs in the background, reflecting the vibrant tapestry of Asian history.

The tour heads to their first stop.

To experience the town’s multicultural community, the guides first took the participants to Jannat Halal Food, a Bangladeshi store that sells food and spices from the Middle East and South Asia. The owner, Raihan Kabir Bouyan, explained how he had come to settle in Japan and opened the shop in December 2006.

A person stands in front of an ornate altar with various religious statues and offerings, including flowers and a figurine. The room, reminiscent of Asian history, is decorated with intricate wood carvings and warm lighting.

A volunteer at the Tokyo Maso Temple explains how the temple was built and shows the inside of the temple.

Next, the participants visited a Nepali greengrocer who originally started a wholesale business, but changed to selling fruit and vegetable 16 years ago. He shared how ninety-percent of his customers are foreigners and because of that, he said he rarely speaks Japanese when dealing with customers.

A person is speaking to a seated group outdoors near red columns. In the background, a busy street with pedestrians and a building with signs hint at the vibrant Shin Okubo area, rich in Asian history.

A volunteer at the Tokyo Maso Temple explains how the temple was built and shows the inside of the temple.

The group later visited Tokyo Maso Temple, a Chinese temple dedicated to a Taoist goddess that safeguards seafarers and fishermen. Many such temples can be found all over China, Taiwan, and East Asia. The temple in Shin-Okubo was built by a Taiwanese businessman who received a “calling from Maso” and built it in 2013.

A group of people in a museum listens to a guide speaking about Asian history. The guide is standing near a display case, and a screen with an image is visible in the background. Visitors walk carefully around the exhibit, eager to learn more about the rich cultural heritage on display.

Participants listening to the guide at KoraiMuseum.

The final destination on the tour was the Korai (Korea) Museum, located between Shin-Okubo and Kabukicho. The museum displays the history of exchanges, both good and bad, between Japan and Korea. Its aim is to help build a relationship of trust between the two countries that can lead to peace in East Asia. One of the stories that stood out was the struggle of Koreans who became isolated in Japanese society due to leprosy.

A table with Korean dishes, including pajeon (savory pancake) with dipping sauce, japchae (stir-fried glass noodles), kimchi, and other side dishes. Chopsticks and drinks are also visible. The setup evokes a sense of dining in Shin Okubo, rich in Asian history and culinary tradition.

The delicious Korean food served to the participants

Upon completing the tour, it was time to satisfy the participants’ physical appetites, who were now hungry after walking the streets of Shin-Okubo on a hot and humid summer day. They were taken to Daehanminguk (Republic of Korea), a Korean cuisine restaurant run by Park Hyun-ja, where they shared their experiences.

A woman wearing glasses and an apron is reading a menu or order pad inside a restaurant. The background includes a refrigerator, utensils, and images of Asian history on the wall. It’s reminiscent of the quaint eateries you’d find during a walk in Shin Okubo.

Park Hyun-ja, restaurant owner and cooking researcher.

One of the participants shared, “I was able to see some of the history between Japan and Korea, but it was also interesting to see people from other countries starting their own businesses in Japan. It was very meaningful and I felt it empowered me with better understanding.”

GPF Japan’s ongoing programs are bringing deeper understanding between people of many cultures as the country expands its diversity, welcoming people from around the world.

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